A bizarre genealogical quirk may best explain why this domaine and its wines have not generally enjoyed the recognition they deserve. Although there is archival evidence dating the domaine back to 1704, for almost 250 years the succession passed through a sole female heir. Until the birth of Lucien Camus, in 1949, therefore, the domaine name changed with each successive generation. Happily Luc and his wife Bernadette (née Bruchon) are blessed with both a son, Guillaume, who since 2001 has been working full-time at the domaine and a daughter, Alexandra, who is the oenologist at the well-known Beaune négociant Albert Bichot.

This once little-known domaine was described by Robert Parker as “an up-and-coming star of the nineties”. It would seem that their star has now risen and they enjoy a well-deserved reputation, and extended client base at home and abroad, notably on the UK and US markets.

Luc´s own succession occurred in difficult circumstances, following the untimely death of his father in 1961, when Luc was only 12 years old. The need to assist his mother in the day-to-day running of the estate precluded any full-time courses at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune, although he managed to make time to pursue the agricultural studies which had always been his particular passion through part-time courses there. He took over the estate in 1971. Since then his more specific viticultural and vinicultural knowledge and skills have been acquired and refined through direct experience in the vineyard and winery.

Although forced to accept the burdens of responsibility at an early age, Luc has had the strength of character to carry them cheerfully and successfully. He has boundless energy, directed by a keen natural intelligence and expressed in a charming manner – at once relaxed, serious and vigorous. Even by comparison with other outstanding Côte d´Or producers he is animated, highly motivated (as he says, “C´est la motivation qui fait tout”), passionate and vibrant. He is committed to producing wines of the highest possible quality for the terroir and the vintage. With that ideal in mind, he devotes great attention to detail at every stage, relishing even the most physical tasks in the vineyard and winery.

The domaine´s heart is in the commune of Savigny-lès-Beaune. On account of its baffling diversity of exposures, soils and sub-soils, this has been described as “the most divided vignoble in Burgundy”. The best sites for red wines are on the opposite hillsides rising up from the River Rhoin and the valley of Fontaine-Froide which shelters the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune itself. Those on the Pernand-Vergelesses side, on the slopes of the charmingly named Bois de Noël, face south and south-east, the soils being gravelly, sandy marl. Those on the Beaune side, on the slopes of Mont Battois, face east and north-east, the soil being more sandy and less stony. The best sites for white wines are on the northern side of the village, facing south, where the limestone and marl soils resemble those of Corton-Charlemagne.

Fortunately for those who are eager to explore the rich variety of Savigny wines, Domaine Camus-Bruchon has holdings in prime sites on both sides of the valley – adjacent premiers crus Aux Gravains and Les Lavières and village Aux Grands Liards on the Pernand-Vergelesses side, premier cru Les Narbantons on the Beaune side. The domaine also has holdings in one of the best lieu dits for Chardonnay; les Goudelettes.

Although many of the Beaune vineyards are owned by négociants of mixed reputation, it would be a great mistake to suppose that this commune does not produce wines of great individuality and high quality. The commune has not been accorded any grands crus, but does boast an exceptionally high proportion of premiers crus – 42 to be precise. Camus-Bruchon has a holding in one of the most northerly and most well-known of these, Clos du Roi. Their holding is placed favourably in the upper part of the vineyard, renowned for producing rich, plump and succulent wines.

In Pommard, Luc is one of a generation of good growers who have now re-established Pommard´s reputation, and the great potential which it has always possessed is being realized in sensational style. The domaine acquired its holding in the premier cru Les Arvelets in 1985. This lesser-known climat to the north of the village is reputed for the finesse of its wines.

Luc is above all a vineyard man. He agrees that it is the quality of his grapes which accounts for up to 90% of the quality of the wine and it is in the vineyards that he spends most of his time. All of the domaine´s Pinot Noir vines are of the superior Pinot Fin strain. Luc has always resisted the higher-yielding but ultimately inferior Pinot Droit strain, so popular in the 1960s and 1970s. Anxious to maintain a high average vine age, Luc practises repiquage and selection massale, especially in the premiers crus and vieilles vignes vineyards. In lesser and newer vineyards he opts for planting several of the more successful clones.

Yields are kept low by hard pruning in the winter as opposed to green-harvesting in the summer (to which Luc only resorts in overly-abundant years). Like most other enlightened growers of his generation, he now practises la lutte raisonnée. Weeds are kept at bay by ploughing, which provides the additional benefits of aerating the soil and improving soil and water retention. With the active participation of his neighbouring vignerons, he is gradually hoping to move further towards to organic agriculture.