Stellar Cellars 2008
As well as these two exceptional individuals, there are many producers that stand out for the quality of their current releases. These are our choices of cellars from every region that have produced compelling releases over the last year. From large or diverse areas, we have chosen two names offering contrasting styles or interpretations. Some are well-establishes stars at least maintaining the very highest standards and provide a regional benchmark. Others challenge the established order or inject new life into a region. All make wines that should be tried at least once.

BURGUNDY COTE D’OR & CHALONNAISE
Domaine de Montille (Volnay)
Hubert et Etienne de Montille. Rue de Pied de la Vallée, 21190 Volnay

One of the leading producers of both Volnay and Pommard, Hubert de Montille (also star of film Mondovino) was well-known for his dislike of high alcohol wines and has always kept chapitalisation to an absolute minimum. He also favoured fermentation at high temperatures and cuvaison followed by a low percentage of new oak. The wines? They showed great dimension and depth but also tended to have a lot of extract and tannin, only opening out with 10 years’ age, but vintages since 1998 have been made by Hubert’s son Etienne. The wines are now less formidable, with finer tannin yet without sacrificing their elegance and individuality. They are now also produced biodynamically. Of the Pommards, the brilliant Rugiens is the essence of Pommard but Pézerolles is scarcely any less intense and classy. Volnays are similarly fine, led by a superb Taillepieds that reveals great length, breadth and finesse. The 05’s are quite stunning but other recent vintages to look for include 1999, 02, 03 and 04. Newer additions are the red Beaune premier cru and (from 04) a dense, classy (potentially 5-star) Corton Pougets from 45 year old vines. For white there is an extremely good Puligny Cailleret.